Big Bend National Park always calls to Joan and me. With over 800,000 acres, it is immense and offers much to see. Far more than we can see in one, two, or even three visits.
And why we always find a reason to return.
I enjoy going there so much because it reminds Joan and me of how we enjoy the outdoors in Moab in many ways – Remote camping sandwiched between backpacking trips.
With our trusty Tacoma, we can access all but a tiny portion of the roads. We have a comfortable camping setup and never feel as if we are roughing it. We dialed in our backpacking kit for our use.
The camp store at Rio Grand Village and the small grocery store in Study Butte give us enough supplies to extend our trips easily.
I found our time away one of the more satisfying trips. And taking the trip to Big Bend proved much of that satisfaction.
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After leaving Hueco Tanks, we went to Alpine, TX, bought supplies, and then traveled to the Panther Junction Visitor Center to get our backcountry permits. With the help of knowledgeable rangers, one of whom remembered us from Organ Pipe Catus two years ago, we got all the permits we could only get in person.
We stopped at our first “backcountry campsite” (think BLM-style dispersed car campsites you can reserve and have all to yourself). There, we enjoyed the first of many Big Bend sunsets and stargazing under the exquisite night sky.
Our setup allowed us to cook real food, and the fresh vegetables proved welcome as we settled in for our first night.
The following morning, we went to a more remote part of the park for two nights of backpacking.
With barely over 4″ / 10cm of rain this past year, the ranger advised us to bring on all our water. Even the tinajas, except perhaps the very bottom, our new ranger friend found dry of water on her trips.
We carried 18 liters of hydration (12 for me, six for Joan). It was a heavy load, but it was not wholly untenable with the “hub and spoke” approach we planned for this trip.
We made our way up the trail, winding through the golf course and Air BnB areas, which seemed incongruous with the remoteness we’d soon find in the park.
We made our way up the steep approach to the mesa and would soon leave the relatively well-known area behind.
The water resources we used back in 2021 did not have a drop.
But the same campsite we used two years ago still had a view that provided one of my all-time favorite sunsets.
We enjoyed the solitude, the views into Mexico, and Nature’s light show.
We stashed most of our gear the following day and set ourselves up for an extended day hike.
We used old pack trails, some easy cross-country travel, and a few cairned routes, making for an excellent tour of this mesa.
Though we are experienced desert travelers, the desert here is much drier with different vegetation, requiring a somewhat different hiking style than the Coloraod Plateau.
But one we immensely enjoy!

My once-a-year selfie to make Joan happy.
After this hike, we grabbed our gear, saddled up again, and made our way to a place that would leave us for an early exit in the morning.
Another fantastic light show ended the evening (if with a noticeably low Rio Grande).
In the morning, we hiked out and drove to Study Butte for a resupply, a shower, and ice cream (of course).
On a side note: My Rhode Island Italian-American roots found joy when a Texas general store sold spumoni ice cream, which was odd and delightful!
Then, we drove back into the park proper to our campsite for the next two nights.
Quite honestly, one of the better car campsites we’ve had is an excellent, quiet place a bit higher up in elevation. It would provide an exquisite experience for the next part of our park visit.
The canyon is lush by the standards of this desert, with oak, pine, and maples. And where you can occasionally find Big Bend’s black bear population.
It’s an oasis and quiet compared to the busier parts of the park during a busy time of the year.
It is a perfect place to enjoy the scenery after a day of hiking and enjoying the place itself.
We also enjoyed two nights of sunsets with the red rocks and the Milky Way above.
A last windy morning proved the perfect time to pack our gear and prepare for another backpacking trip within Big Bend.

Joan bravely holds down our sleeping bags as I pack our gear.