Colorado Ski Tours – Mags Favorites

Ski Touring

Since living in Colorado, I have become an avid backcountry skiier.

I was once a snowshoer, but thanks in large part to my friend Wendy, I have come to enjoy skiing more.

Ski touring is the backcountry cousin of  traditional cross-country skiing. With no groomed trails, you use wider skis and full metal edges for basic turns. It is a great way to explore the backcountry during winter.

Less crowded, less expensive and more of a wilderness experience than area (resort) skiing, and less of an adrenalin rush (and accident prone!) than typical “big bowl” telemark skiing.

Ski touring is essentially hiking on skis: A more relaxed, meditative and genteel way to explore the backcountry in winter than other winter outdoor pursuits.

Touring is also a bit more elegant than snowshoeing; there is something almost magical about gliding along the fresh powder with clear skies and the sun shining.

It is no surprise that people who enjoy ski touring also tend to enjoy long hikes. Like hiking, ski touring is more about the journey than the adrenalin rush. If you enjoy walking long distances, then you’ll enjoy ski touring.   Ski touring also makes use of many of the same assets of long distance hiking: Good cardio, great endurance and strength.  If you are klutz like me, it is also less dangerous than other types of skiing!

If you can walk, you can learn the basics of ski touring. If I can do it, anyone can. 🙂

I’ve listed some favorite tours below. I admit these tours play to my personal strengths as a skiier (excellent cardio, endurance and strength)  and depend less on technical ability (which is intermediate for me).  No surprise, my suggestions tend to be longer and less technical than what others may suggest. The beauty of the Colorado outdoors – so many options!

If you want more technical skiing and love gliding on powder, consider doing more of the “yo-yo” telemark bowl skiing.

If you strictly want adrenalin, then shell out a few hundred dollars for a pass, ride the lift, experience something more like Disney World than wilderness and get stuck in traffic on I-70 .  I’m biased: Alpine skiing may be outdoors, but it is not an Outdoors activity to me. 😉

If you want to learn more about ski touring, the best guide I’ve seen was for FREE at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder.  This ~30 page handout goes over the basics of technique, clothing, waxing vs. skins vs. fish scales and other important parts of ski touring in a concise, informative and easy to read format. Did I mention is it free, too?

If you find yourself in Boulder,  stop on in the store. Not only can you probably pick up the free guide, but you get to check out one of the premier mountaineering stores in North America.  There is also mountaineering museum of sorts in displays scattered throughout the store.

If making it to Boulder is not in the cards, this book is great. Much like similar books from Falcon guides, it is a humorous and concise guide.

I also wrote and Introduction to Snowshoeing Basics guide. Nominally about snowshoeing, about 80%+ of this doc applies to any backcountry winter activity.

When I ski, I use “heavy touring gear” myself.  Light tele skis and bindings with leather touring boots.

This link says it best:
http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/DirtbagPinner/bc-skis.html#OLD%20SCHOOL

Esp this part:

“ I think these skis are ideally suited for experienced backcountry travelers who are interested in pushing deep into the winter woods with a reasonably equipped day pack or overnight pack. In my opinion, these skis are camping skis first and foremost so I think they’re best matched with skiers who have a camping or long distance hiking mindset.”

Think it may apply to me. 🙂

As always, this little doc is just an overview. Esp in winter, you must be aware of how to be safe and comfortable in the outdoors before going into the backcountry.

Enough info…on to the tours!

–Paul Mags

• Brainard Lake Ski Loop
• Sourdough Traverse
• Lost Lake Full Moon Ski
• Peru Creek Road
• Peaks Trail Traverse

#1: The Local Classic: Brainard Lake Loop

Total Length: ~11 miles
Total Elevation Gain:

~1500 feet
Maps: Trails Illustrated Map #102 (Indian Peaks/Gold Hill)
Dogs: Dogs are not allowed on the majority of the trails in winter
Permit: None
Other:

Brainard Lakes Recreation Area is perhaps the most well known winter area in the Boulder area. Classic ski tour trails, lots of snowshoe trails and rather nice scenery towards the Continental Divide. With Brainard Lake Cabin open during most weekend days with its welcome hot cocoa and tea, it is a great place to experience the fun of winter.

Brainard Lake really is a great ski area. One I never get tired of.

Alas, it can be a very crowded place. The trick is just to find trails that are somewhat off the beaten path and arrive a little early (before 9am). I also noticed the Skier Only trails tend to be less crowded than the ones that are meant for snowshoeing.

One of my favorite tours is indeed off the beaten path a bit. Once past the parking lot, you can feel immersed in the backcountry and really enjoy winter.

The loop starts at the Red Rock Trailhead. In my opinion, the trailhead area is often the worse part of skiing at Brainard Lake. Besides the sheer amount of people, the wind can often be fierce in the exposed parking area. You really understand why this areas is sometimes called the Windian Peaks!

From the Red Rock trailhead, go south and west up and along FS 104. After about a mile turn west and north on the skier only Little Raven Trail. You will now be in the trees. Enjoy the forest and snow as you glide along.

After a bit on the Little Raven Trail, ski along the Brainard Lake Road until you connect to the South St. Vrain Trail. As you pass Brainard Lake, there is a good chance you will encounter some cold wind at the 10k plus foot elevation. But, you can at least enjoy the views towards the Continental Divide.

If the wind is a bit fierce for you, and you need a break, take the short side trip to Brainard Cabin. It is not marked on the TI maps, but is roughly located where the snowshoe symbol is just off the Waldrop Ski Trail. The access for trail for the cabin is just before the South St. Vrain Trail access.

At the cabin, pay your one dollar day use fee, enjoy a hot beverage and warm up by the fire.

After warming up, ski out make your way to the South St. Vrain Trail. While skiing up to the South St. Vrail trail, you may enjoy a great winter scene of the falling snow and the cascading creek.

The South St. Vrain Trail portion is my favorite part of the ski tour. A nice downhill that is really exhilarating.   This portion of Brainard Lake is used less than the rest of the area, but it is mixed snowshoeing and skiing. Look out for any snowshoers parked in the middle of th trail. 🙂

After two miles or so of this fun skiing, you come to the Sourdough Trail junction.  Make your way up the trail by heading south on the trail. You will come back to the Red Rocks trailhead and the completion of this journey.

Apres Ski: After this calorie burning trip, a great place to refuel is in the funky mountain town of Nederland (“Ned” to locals). Some great Indian/Nepali food is found at the Kathmandu restaurant. What better place to eat this kind of food than at 8200 plus feet and in the shadow of the Continental Divide?  If you are tired, the bottomless cups of chai will get you going again and warm you up!

#2: The Point to Point Tour: The Sourdough Traverse

Total Length: ~13 miles
Total Elevation Gain:

~1500 feet
Maps: Trails Illustrated Map #102 (Indian Peaks/Gold Hill)
Dogs: Dogs are not allowed on the majority of the trails in winter
Permit: None

Another classic tour: a point to point tour on the Sourdough Trail.

This one way tour is best done going northbound. You gain a high point on a ridge with dramatic views to the East. From there, is it is (mainly) a gradual downhill. The whole tour is mainly in the trees, so the powder tends to be good throughout. It is a tour I look forward to every year! With i

This tour does involve a point-to-point shuttle. One car needs to be stashed at Camp Dick in Peaceful Valley.

The other car will be stashed at the start of the tour at Rainbow Lakes Rd trailhead. (You’ll see a sign that says CU RESEARCH STATION just off the “Peak to Peak” SH72. Turn here).

From the start of this trail, you gradually make your way up some switchbacks through a coniferous forest.

After a while, you make your about 2.5 miles and down a bit to the Peace Memorial Bridge. After the bridge, you start a gradual ascent again up to the ridge and along undulating trail. Finally, you reach the high point of the tour. On a clear, winter day, the views to the high plains are remarkable.

Take a break, enjoy the view and ski down the trail to Brainard Lake Rd.

You will probably get to Brainard Lake as the high point of the crowds. Considering how few people you’ve seen up until this point, you may find all the cars…interesting!

Quickly cross the road and continue on the Sourdough Trail.

After some continued skiing in the woods, you’ll come to the only really windblown part of the trip near Beaver Reservoir. The snow may not be the best, but the views towards the Continental Divide are always nice.

Make your way back into the trees (and the better snow) and you’ll come to a final descent down some switchbacks. The tour is almost done. Enjoy the gradual descent down the gentle and often quiet trail in the aptly named Peaceful Valley.

You will soon arrive at your vehicle. Pick up the other one a short drive down the highway. And make your way back to “civilization”

Apres Ski: As before, it is really hard for me to pass up the  Kathmandu restaurant. After a day of skiing, the tasty saag, delicious naan and bottomless cups of chai are just the ticket!

#3: The Full Moon Ski: Lost Lake

Total Length: ~5 miles (from the winter trailhead)
Total Elevation Gain:

~800 feet
Maps: Trails Illustrated Map #102 (Indian Peaks/Gold Hill)
Dogs: Dogs allowed
Permit: None

Skiing by the light of the full moon is one of the most magical backcountry experiences you can do. Period.

This trip is a perennial favorite of mine. One I do every year. I love full moon activities and perhaps love full moon skiing best of all.

The snow glows silver. The stars are shining above. The mountains and the lake are illuminated by a very bright winter full moon. And you get to enjoy it all while sipping some hot cider and rum. What could be better?

Rather than duplicate information, I again to defer to the excellent Protrails.com for info on Lost Lake.

I will say that because you have to park at the winter trailhead just at the edge of the small town of Eldora (it is at the road mentioned in Protrails link. In winter, the road is gated), the route is slightly longer in winter versus the summer. The elevation gain difference is negligible as you are skiing along a road.

Due to the switchbacks coming down from Lost Lake, this is not a good beginner ski. On the way up, I find climbing skins are much easier to use than fish scales or wax if is the snow is not fresh. The snow can often get icy and wind blown in this area.

Finally, this trip is also a good mixed snowshoe/skiier trip IF the snowshoers are in good aerobic shape. Otherwise, it is a long climb up,  a long descent down..and a much later trip than everyone probably wants. 🙂

Go out. Enjoy the light of the full moon. And revel in one of the glories of winter.

Note: While dogs are technically allowed, you may want to rethink bringing  a dog. Night skiing and dogs can be a bad combo! 🙂

Apres Ski: The full moon is almost always during a week. As such, the apres ski places may be limited later at night. One place that has a limited late night menu, in addition to happy hour beers, is the Mountain Sun in downtown Boulder on Pearl St. Have a bowl of black bean chili washed down with some Java Porter. Mmmmm….