Appalachian Trail Journal 1998 : Part 2 – The Mid-Atlantic
Mile Post 1014.0 ~ Rocky Rim Shelter
May 17 ~ A warm, humid day was the way things were. Seemed as if gallons of
sweat were pouring off as I hiked the trail. The Weverton Cliffs provided a
welcome pull off point for lunch. The vista of the rivers below make for a
nice postcard type photo. Fool on the Hill was at the shelter tonight, first
time I have seen him in a while. Always good to see someone who I thought
was a bit ahead.-Paul
Mile Post 1033.6 ~ Devil's Race Course Shelter
May 18 ~ This portion of the AT should be called the Maryland Suburb Walk.
The trail literally goes between homes and the backyards of "Leave it to
Beaver" type suburbs. Seeing people, not twenty feet away, mowing their
lawns is not something that I expected to see on this trip. The shelters are
also very close to the roads. Even the illusion of wilderness is difficult
to have on this portion of the AT. Can't be helped I guess, being so close
to heavily populated areas. Tomorrow I will be in Pennsylvania, officially
leaving the South behind. So long biscuits and gravy, it was nice knowing
you.-Paul
Mile Post 1053.5 ~ Rocky Mountain Shelters
May 19 ~ Celebrated my birthday by crossing over into Pennsylvania. WooHoo!
No birthday cake today, but a long lunch break at the Antietam Shelter
proved to be the highlight of the day. It was a muggy day, but the creek at
the shelter was just right to wade in. The ice cold water seemed to make the
rest of the day go by very easy. Any day where I can do a bit of swimming
and still make it to the shelter before six has to be a good day.-Paul
Mile Post 1073.0 ~ Toms Run Shelters
May 20 ~ Another day good for miles and taking it easy. Had an unexpected
mid-morning break at the Quarry Gap Shelter area. This shelter is by far one
of the best on the trail. Even has a bench by the stream. Very relaxing
place to soak up the morning sun. If the first break was relaxing, the
second break was just the thing to make the miles fly by. The Birch Run
Shelter area had a large grassy area with a creek flowing in front of it.
Just did not want to move from this spot. Even played a little Frisbee with
Hawk and Funk. [Packing a Frisbee is one of the cooler items I have seen a
thru-hiker carry.] A two hour lunch stop is definately addicting. The best
part of the whole day was that the group of us were able to take such long
breaks and still be in camp before five. A great day! The bugs are
definately out in full force tonight. Which is why I'm glad I have a tent.
The rest of the hikers are getting munched on by the flying blood suckers,
while I am quite comfy in my tent. Methinks they are a little envious of
what some nylon can do for a good night sleep.-Paul
Mile Post 1096.0 ~ Boiling Springs, PA
May 21 ~ Another trail milestone was the event of the day. The half-way
marker was in the woods. A peaceful setting to contemplate what this
milestone means. A part of me was excited that I have reached the half-way
point, but another part is saddened at the fact that this journey will
eventually end. The memories and experiences that are part of the
Appalachian Trail will be hard to leave. This thru-hike has been some of the
most meaningful, exciting and happy times that I have experienced in my
life. Every step brings me closer to Katahdin, but every step brings this
journey that much closer to the end. A prospect that brings both joy and
sadness. Funk, Fool, and myself celebrated this milestone by the requisite
photos, and a mandatory, celebratory Snickers. The town of Boiling Springs
is a relatively new addition to the trail, but it is a nice one. Small and
peaceful. Sitting on the porch swing at the ATC office while looking at the
lake was a fitting end to another great day. Tonight, Funk, Fool and myself
are camped in the backyard at the local bed and breakfast. The night sky is
clear, and it is cool enough that no insects are biting. A perfect night to
sleep under the stars. Gazing up at the canvas that is the night sky, while
lying on the grass lawn is something that I will look back on fondly.-Paul
Mile Post 1117.7 ~ Thelma Marks Shelter
May 22 ~ The Cumberland Valley was an extremely pleasant walk. Temperature
in the low 70's with a slight breeze made walking through large grass fields
a great way to spend a morning. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am
enjoying this hike. Seeing the historic Cumberland Valley on a gorgeous
spring day is another memory that will be etched favorably in my mind. My
boots are now officially no good. The soles are gone and my feet ache
horribly after a few miles. Funk is a native of Pennsylvania and his folks
are going to meet him in Duncannon to bring him to the outfitters. Looks
like I'll be tagging along, too. Odd how much I have become attached to my
Crestas. They have a lot of memorable miles on them. From weekend outings in
the Whites to trekking to the Canadian border in Vermont, and now 1100 miles
on the AT. Hopefully the next 1000 miles will put some memorable miles on a
new pair of boots.-Paul
Mile Post 1121.9 ~ Duncannon PA
May 23 ~ Ah, the Doyle Hotel. How to describe this trail legend. Hmm,
picture an old 1940s detective movie with jazz background music. Instead of
Humphrey Bogart, throw in some smelly hikers. And instead of John Coltrane,
the jukebox in the bar played some country music. The Doyle definitely has a
certain charm. (And the most charming part is that it is cheap.) Duncannon
may not be the fanciest town, but it serves the purpose. Has an excellent
pizza place, too. Tomorrow I get to test my new boots on the infamous rocks
of Pennsylvania. Should prove to be interesting. Nothing like breaking in
new boots on a field of rocks. Think I will wear anti-leather signs at a
Harley Davidson convention for an encore.-Paul
Mile Post 1133.4 ~ Peter's Mountain Shelter
May 24 ~ Lazy, wonderful and relaxing. The way Sundays should be. Knowing I
only had to do eleven miles, there was no rush to reach the shelter. Spent
nearly three hours at an overlook that was a mill before the shelter. There
are now more long distance section hikers on the trail. Nice to see a new
group of faces to add to the mix. I think the people I have been hiking on
and off with have heard all my jokes. A new group of people will take a
while before they realize how awful my jokes are.-Paul
Mile Post 1154.0 ~ Bleu Blaze Hostel
May 25 ~ Rocks of Pennsylvania? Seems to be a bit of a myth. Yes there were
rocks, but not as bad as trail rumor has led us to believe. Instead, the
type of day was a pleasant walk in the woods. The kind of day that seemed
more like a stroll in the park than a difficult climb on a mountain. The day
had an ebb and flow that seemed to go well. It seems as if I do not have to
push myself as hard now. Pennsylvania has been benign, hopefully it will
stay that way.-Paul
Mile Post 1168.9 ~ 501 Shelter
May 26 ~ Yahoo! Less than 1000 miles to Katahdin. Getting down to triple
digits is an odd feeling. Call it another bittersweet moment. At the
shelter, the caretaker has a phone to call in pizza. Waiting at the parking
lot near the shelter, Relax, Brian and I saw a car pull up. Ah! The pizza is
here. So, being the hungry hikers we are, we had a scary look on our faces.
I know we were scary, because the woman driving the car looked at us with
extreme fear. Of course, not being the pizza delivery person, and seeing
these people hovering her car did not help matters. I thought for sure I was
going to get pepper sprayed. When I asked if she was the pizza delivery
person, she gave a very scared "NO"! For some odd reason, she went on her
jog at what seemed like an extremely fast pace. When the actual pizza
delivery person showed up, I was just a small bit hesitant to approach the
car. I am beginning to believe that my appearance is that of a person that
mothers warn their children about.-Paul
Mile Post 1192.2 ~ Port Clinton, PA
May 27 ~ I have found the true faith. Hallelujah! Yes, I now am a firm
believer that the rocks of Pennsylvania deserve every horror story that is
told about them. Big rocks, small rocks, sharp rocks, blunt rocks, black
rocks, white rocks, rocks, rocks, rocks! My dogs aren't just barking – they
are foaming at the mouth in a rabid rage. This thru-hiker is one tired
puppy. I think a big breakfast at the local restaurant will be just the
ticket to face the infamous rocks of PA for another day.-Paul
Mile Post 1207.7 ~ Eckville Shelter
May 28 ~ Three-H weather was the main event. Hot, hazy, humid. The kind of
day that people will say "It's not the heat, it's the humidity". In any
case, much water was consumed today. Tepid water, mmmm! I will gladly take
this weather though. It is far better than the snow of a couple of months
back. This shelter has a caretaker that offers all the essentials: ice cream
sandwiches, cold Mountain Dews, and B.B. King playing on the radio.
Definitely what this hiker needed on a sultry May evening.-Paul
Mile Post 1226.4 ~ Bake Oven Knob Shelter
May 29 ~ Another hot day in this Bake Oven of rocks that is called
Pennsylvania. The haze was a thick blanket on the horizon, with the sun
beating down, making one feel like they are in a broiler. But there was an
oasis in this field of rocks, a hiker friendly restaurant that is
air-conditioned! Ah, relief! The heat was broken late afternoon when a
thunder shower brought a cooling rain. Now the insects are gone, and the
temperature is now tolerable. New Jersey is not too far away. The miles keep
coming, one step at a time.-Paul
Mile Post 1251.0 ~ Leroy A. Smith Shelter/a>
May 30 ~ Water, such a valuable substance, especially when I run out of it
with ten miles left to the hike, and the spring six miles before the shelter
is gone dry. Ack! My daydreaming involved large glasses of ice tea,
lemonade, and pitchers of ice water. Running out of water is not something I
recommend to try on a thru-hike. The ridge overlooking Palmerton was
interesting. The ridge was bare of live trees and was full of rocks. The
only trees standing were groves of dead ones. The whole landscape was
looking like something out of a science fiction novel. The years of zinc
smelting in Palmerton apparently took their toll on this ridge. This was my
longest day on the trail, but I do not feel as tired as expected. Tomorrow
morning might be a different story, though.-Paul
Mile Post 1270.9 ~ Delaware Water Gap, PA
May 31 ~ Another state down. New Jersey awaits. The rocks again kicked our
behinds. Think I will take tomorrow off to do some chores I have been
needing to do. The hostel is a great place to kick back and catch up on some
reading. The lights are flickering because of a nasty thunderstorm outside.
Hopefully the rain will cool things down a bit.-Paul
Mile Post 1270.9 ~ Delaware Water Gap, PA
June 1 ~ Going into town to do laundry felt odd. Any time I am in town and
off the trail it does not feel natural. Too many people, too much activity,
too much noise. Makes me wonder how I will adjust to the "real world" when
this journey is over. After three months of being on the trail, camping is a
way of life; staying up past nine to read a book is a novelty.-Paul
Mile Post 1281.4 ~ Camp Mohican
June 2 ~ Crossing over into New Jersey was a nice way to start the day.
Streams along side the trail, with mountain laurel in full bloom made for a
pleasant walk. A leisurely lunch by Sunfish Pond proved to be the perfect
way to spend the afternoon. Finally, actual swimming in Catfish Pond at Camp
Mohican ended the day on a good note. Days like this feel more like a day
hike than a five month backpacking trip. Not a bad feeling.-Paul
Mile Post 1302.4 ~ Gren Anderson Shelter
June 3 ~ New Jersey has been one of the more pleasant surprises of the AT.
Small ponds along side the trail, striking views of the ridges, pine
forests, and tunnels of mountain laurel that seem to be everywhere. I have
even seen a black bear! New Jersey is proving to be one of the more
enjoyable states to hike in. Who would have thought? As with most people,
when I think of New Jersey, I think of toxic waste dumps. No longer. I will
think of the hike along the ridge, seeing mountain laurel that is a pale
shade of pink.-Paul
Mile Post 1323.0 ~ Camp Site
June 4 ~ Another great day in New Jersey. Cool temps in the low 60's, a
sunny sky, and awesome vistas. Definately the kind of day made for hiking.
Found a great campsite near a brook. After twenty miles, I think tenting
will be just the ticket. Tomorrow should be an easy day into town and with
that the all important shower. Fresh fruit sounds good, too.-Paul
Mile Post 1335.0 ~ Veron, NJ
June 5 ~ Ah, the lap of luxury! Sleeping at the fire station with a hot
shower! Funny how after more than three months out here, a hot shower is the
ultimate luxury. Cleaning away the grime is definately the best. Tomorrow, I
will be in New York. Can't believe how fast the states are going by. Soon I
will be back "home". New England is just around the corner, and with that,
the mountains I know well.-Paul
Mile Post 1354.4 ~ Fitzgerald Falls
June 6 ~ The firefighters of Vernon are definitely hiker friendly. Not only
did they allow us to stay at the pavilion and to shower, but they shuttled
us to the laundromat and to the trail this morning. They also have future
plans to add a washer and dryer hook-ups for the hikers to use. Not too
shabby. Had a great lunch on Prospect Rock. The weather continues to be
excellent. From Prospect Rock, I was able to see both the Empire State
Building and the World Trade Center. Not a bad way to enter a new state. The
only mishap today is that I missed the shelter turn-off. The shelter's side
trail was blue blazed, but did not have a sign! I had a sinking feeling I
missed the shelter when the trail started to descend. But everything worked
out for the best. The camping area by the falls is awesome. Plenty of flat
spots to pitch my tent, and the always relaxing sound of waterfalls. Another
one of the many great days I have had on this trail.-Paul
Mile Post 1366.8 ~ Fingerboard Shelter
June 7 ~ Felt very lethargic today. The miles seemed very difficult, and
seemed to take a lot out of me. Think I am coming down with something. Plan
on doing a little reading, and going to bed early tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 1380.5 ~ Ft Montgomery, NY
June 8 ~ Defintely have a "bug" of some sort. Had a low grade headache all
day, and I had the chills when I climbed into the bed at the hotel. Another
early night it looks like. Think I will also do a very low mileage day
tomorrow.-Paul
Mile Post 1387.7 ~ Graymoor Friary
June 9 ~ Had a relaxing day at the camping site near the friary. Was able to
relax on the grass and read for most of the day. Already starting to feel
much better. One more night of an early bedtime should get me back to
par.-Paul
Mile Post 1406.4 ~ RPH Shelter
June 10 ~ Ah, definately feeling better. The day again had great weather. I
was no longer tired and was able to arrive at camp at a decent time. A long
day of rest was definately needed. The trail was a tunnel of mountain
laurel, with periodic breaks of pine trees. Funny seeing pines at these
lower elevations. Means I am getting further North, and will soon be back in
the mountains I know well.-Paul
Mile Post 1423.5 ~ Campsite North of WestPower Rd
June 11 ~ I woke up this morning with the worse hiker hunger I have had yet.
The lure of a deli less than a half mile off the trail was too strong to
pass up. The deli was a slice of paradise to all of us hungry hikers. Eggs,
sausage, bacon and cheese on a bagel, washed down with a cup of coffee and a
half gallon of milk really hit the spot. Then I bought my lunch to go. Hot
capicola, provolone cheese, marinated red peppers all on a fresh roll.
Yummy! This made a great lunch at Nuclear Lake. Yep, the trail is now newly
relocated to the shores of this lake. The orange streamers marking the relo
are still up and the blazes looked brand spanking new. The lake was great.
Little peninsulas jutting into the lake covered with pink mountain laurel.
Finally, I had a surprise tonight. A ranger from New Jersey was on the trail
today, and he recognizes the group of us. He shuttled our group into Pawling
for dinner. Since, we met up at the shelter just before the road, it worked
out great. The end of this fine day is at the best camp site yet for me on
the trail. It is a grass field surrounded by distant hills, and in this tall
grass are countless fireflies. All I can think of is the ocean back home.
Instead of twinkling lights on a dark ocean, there are twinkling lights on a
sea of grass that seems to extend forever. Impressive sight as I gaze on it
sitting at the base of a lone tree that seems to be an island in a sea of
grass. Relaxing, peaceful, inspiring. All campsites should be this
good.-Paul